Finish an Easy-to-Sew Swing Jacket

M7201-Nancy Zieman Swing Jacket by McCalls

Finish an Easy-to-Sew Swing Jacket

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M7201-Nancy Zieman Swing Jacket by McCallsSewing a jacket may sound overwhelming, but not so when you use my new pattern, from The McCall Pattern Company. The swing style with asymmetrical or cropped styling is flattering to wear and best of all, streamlined to sew.

M7210 Swing Jacket by Nancy Zieman for McCall's Pattern CompanyIn last week’s blog you learned how to construct the basic jacket—shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. Today, you’ll see how a continuous facing finishes the back neck, front, and hemline edges—neat—clean—nice!


  • Press fusible interfacing to wrong side of the Back Neck and Front Facing pieces, following manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Serge or zigzag outer edges of Back Neck Facing, Front Facing, Front Hemline Facing, and Back Hemline Facing.

Stitch Facings

  • Align and pin right sides and match notches of Front Facing and Back Neck Fabric at shoulder seams; stitch seams.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 1FrontBack

  • Press seams flat; then open.
  • Align and pin right sides of Front Hem Facings to Back Hem facing at side seams; stitch seams.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 2LowerEdge

  • Serge or zigzag outer edges of Back Neck Facing, Front Facing, Front Hemline Facing, and Back Hemline Facing.
  • Attach the hem facing unit to the back neck and front facing unit. The facings are all sewn together, creating a facing unit. This unit will finish all the outer edges, including the hemline.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 3ContinuousFacingsStitch Facing Unit to Jacket

Note from Nancy: The facing unit will be stitched to the jacket, section by section, not in one continuous seam as you might expect. Follow along—the jacket corners will be effortless to sew and turn out perfectly!

  • Align and pin right sides and notches of facing unit to jacket along the neckline.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 3Pinned

  • Stitch the neckline seam.
  • Grade the seam allowance, trimming the facing seam the narrowest width.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 5GradeNeck

  • Press the seam allowance toward the facing.
  • Understitch, stitching the seam allowance to the facing.

Note from Nancy: The white thread has been added digitally, making it easier to see. In real life, I used coordinating thread.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 6Understitch

  • Align and pin right sides and notches of front facing to jacket front.

Note from Nancy: Notice the seam allowances at the neckline corner are already graded and understitched. This sewing process will give you perfect corners! And, as before, the white stitching has been added only to illustrate the stitch. Coordinating thread should be used.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 8Stitching

  • Stitch the jacket front seam.
  • Grade the seam allowances, trimming the facing seam the narrowest width.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 9GradeLowerEdge

  • Understitch the seam allowances to the facing, stitching from the hemline to the neckline. Stitch as far to the corner as possible.
  • Align and pin right sides and notches of jacket hem facing to jacket. Stitch the jacket hem seam.
  • Grade the seam allowances, trimming the facing seam the narrowest width.
  • Turn jacket right side out, aligning the seam along the jacket edges; press.
  • Pin facing to the jacket.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 9aFlipAndPinTopstitch Facing to Jacket—Both Views

  • Set machine for a straight stitch.
  • Topstitch from the facing side, sewing along the serged or zigzag edge.

Note from Nancy: Generally I would recommend stitching from the right side. In this case, the facing provides a perfect sewing guide, eliminating the need to measure the stitching distance from the outer edges.

NancyZieman SwingJacket M7210 9bStitchFinishing touches

  • Fold up the hem allowance at the sleeve; pin. Topstitch the hem in place.
  • Stitch a buttonhole on the jacket right front. Cut the opening.
  • Hand stitch the button to the left side of the jacket front.
For more information on applying facings, creating buttonholes, and grading seam allowances, see my book, The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
This book is a lifetime compilation of techniques that make sewing fun and easy for all skill levels. You’ll learn about sewing tools, easy sewing techniques, how to use a sewing machine and serger, how to select and use fabrics and patterns, and how easy it is to sew simple projects.

Watch The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Three) on Sewing With Nancy online. 

To watch Sewing With Nancy on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone, download the app.

The Absolute Easiest way to Sew by Nancy Zieman/Sewing With Nancy

Nancys Giveaway 5 13

For a chance to win a copy of my new Swing Jacket Pattern, simply leave me a comment sharing what fabric type you’ll be using in your jacket project. A winner will be randomly selected on Aug. 25.

M7201-Nancy Zieman Swing Jacket by McCalls

Don’t forget to enter my Fall Table Runner Challenge—$1000 in prizes!

Nancy Zieman's Fall Table Runner Challenge 2015 Badge

Don’t forget to submit your table runner in my Fall Table Runner Challenge! Click here to see how to enter. Make sure you are subscribed to my enews mailing list so you won’t miss a thing. Sign up here.

Bye for now,

Nancy Zieman The Blog

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  • Robyn
    August 18, 2015

    The swing jacket is adorable! I just got s new job and it would be perfect in my professional world!

  • Francine Shea
    August 18, 2015

    I would like to try it with a micro fleece first. I haven’t tried clothing before. It will be an adventure- one that I’m excited to try.

  • BevM
    August 18, 2015

    I would use a linen type fabric for movement, to make the swing jacket.

  • Elaine Wong
    August 18, 2015

    I would love to try making jacket A with this
    linen material that I just bought, a rich gold

  • Debbie
    August 18, 2015

    I would make this is a lightweight fabric for layering at work. It’s adorable!

  • Marilyn
    August 18, 2015

    I’m going to use light weight wool because I live in Florida and this would be perfect to slip on during our cold months. We can get some pretty chilly days here. Then I might try it in some Denim so I can just throw it on when I wear white or colored jeans. Oh My, my mind is really starting to go all different directions with this and there’s not enough room so I have to end this now. LOL

  • Jan
    August 18, 2015

    I think I will try a lightweight denim from my stash. We seem to have many doctor’s appointments these days, and it is always so cold in the offices. I need something a bit more stylish than my husband’s old red windbreaker to take along.

  • Delaine Stendahl
    August 18, 2015

    I plan to make one of these jackets to compliment many outfits for work. Thanks for the creative design. I can not wait to shop for fabric!

  • Anna
    August 18, 2015

    I love this jacket! I have been looking for one like this for w while. I am a beginner jacket sewer. So I would start with a muslin to get fit right and to be able to do it with Nancy online. Then I would complete it in duponie silk with a large exotic buttons o r large vintage pin conversed to button

  • Pat
    August 18, 2015

    I will be using a synthetic linen type fabric. I love the look of linen but hate the wrinkles. The synthetics seem a little better in this respect. Thanks for the chance to win.

  • Stella Byrd
    August 18, 2015

    I can’t wait to make this jacket. I will probably make it out of gaberdine fabric or a blue jean fabric.

  • Diana G.
    August 18, 2015

    I would make a lightweight linen jacket for spring & summer,then a velveteen for fall & winter. Maybe even one for all four seasons of the year ! 🙂
    Thanks for the chance to win !

  • Kay Coffin
    August 18, 2015

    I can see this as a very dressy jacket in some brocade that is languishing in my Sewing Room.

  • Theresa Brooks
    August 18, 2015

    I have some printed denim that would look great with this pattern! I could use one of the big buttons from my button collection!

  • Kim Harrington
    August 18, 2015

    This pattern is so versatile! I could see using it in a very casual fabric or a beautiful dressy fabric. I love it!

  • Deb
    August 18, 2015

    I have some Broadcloth from my aunt’s stash that I think would be great for this coat for the Fall. It looks cozy and comfy!

  • Priscilla
    August 18, 2015

    I think this might look good in linen or linen like fabric. I live along the Gulf and rarely need a heavy jacket. This looks simple enough. Thanks for the good tips.

  • Starla
    August 18, 2015

    For a casual version of this, what about using an old lightweight blanket? I sometimes recycle unusual fabrics to make a prototype and wind up loving the results.

  • Donna G.
    August 18, 2015

    I have some lovely Pendleton wool I’d like to use. It’s such a nice and versatile pattern that I can see many different fabrics being used!

    August 18, 2015

    I’d love to make this up using a beautiful blue and white vintage cotton tablecloth which is randomly sprinkled with deep pink cabbage roses. For wearing with a jean skirt or pair of jeans.

  • Carole Buerman
    August 18, 2015

    Love the way the “swing” is in the back. I have some blue tweed that would work for the office or with jeans.

  • JoD
    August 18, 2015

    This is going to be a challenge to narrow it down to ‘what color?’ and ‘what fabric’. Looking through my special stash, I see a red Japanese flower print in a mid weight poly blend that would look very dressy in the shorter version. There’s also a white with tiny black flowers that would mimic the longer version of the pattern. Maybe both would look good!

  • Marti
    August 18, 2015

    I love the swing jacket. I have some silk that my husband purchased for me when he traveled to India.

  • rose
    August 18, 2015

    I think I would like to see this jacket in a lightweight red or yellow wool. also for casual wear, a dark blue denim. great

  • Pat
    August 18, 2015

    I would love to make this jacket in lightweight wool for my daughter whose baby is due in January. She was trying to decide if she would need a winter coat.

  • Ell
    August 18, 2015

    My jacket would be made of a lightweight gabardine. I have been admiring similar styles, and would really like to try this one.

  • Melanie Shamp
    August 18, 2015

    Love the way it lays… I think a rich silk would be gorgeous for the fall. Much more style than the sweater or sweatshirt.

  • Candice
    August 18, 2015

    The stash is calling! I have a beautiful autumn print, in a heavier weight cotton blend. Perfect for the upcoming season. (Funny – I just looked at the pattern the other day, while shopping for something else!)

  • Carol
    August 18, 2015

    I see it in a nice wide wale corduroy for cool days in the fall.

  • Ann
    August 18, 2015

    I plan to use faux suede I can’t
    wait to try this patern.

  • Jane Ruhl
    August 18, 2015

    I have wanted a denim swing jacket for the longest time! This pattern would be great!

  • Joan
    August 19, 2015

    I would make mine out of a slightly stretch denim, and another one out of a light weight wool blend. I love the style of this jacket!

  • Sue Moore
    August 19, 2015

    I just love the jacket. I have some lovely sand coloured corduroy that would look great.

    • Sue Moore
      August 19, 2015

      It would be great for our changing seasons in South Australia

  • Karen
    August 19, 2015

    I have a print denim in my stash that would be great for Fall. Also have some linen that would be gorgeous too! Gives me an excuse to go button shopping! Fun fun fun!

  • Sandy Hauger
    August 19, 2015

    I would like to make this in al waxed denim first. I also think this would be beautiful in good quality wool crepe or boucle.

  • Lola Crouch
    August 20, 2015

    I would love to make this jacket out of red wool. Thank you for the neat pattern.

  • CarolR
    August 20, 2015

    I like the idea of wide wale or even pinwale corduroy. Bring on the Fall colors!

  • Ann
    August 24, 2015

    I plan t use a huge soft drape wool that has a beautiful imprinted design perfect for the back. It looks like this has a lining. Am I correct?

  • Beth Dishong
    August 25, 2015

    I have always liked this type of jacket. I have a really lightweight brushed denim that has a perfect drape for this pattern it’s also lightweight enough for the very mild winters in Florida. I would love this pattern. Thanks.

  • Evelin Padilla
    August 25, 2015

    Hello Nancy I found handerchiel linen. Perfect for curves n soft for fall.
    Thank you for your great blog n shows.

  • Kay
    August 29, 2015

    I am going to try some fabric I have that resembles a burlap texture but is very soft! Nice pattern.

    A request……would love to see a few of the patterns like this with simple lines available in the Plus Size groupings 3-6x for some of my family members. So hard to find.

  • Lisa Garrett
    September 8, 2015

    I love this style! I think I would like to use linen.

    lag110 at mchsi dot com

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