Sew Easy Quilt Bindings
By Emily Jansson, Nancy’s Notions guest blogger
I hope this tool will change your life, as it did mine. Occasionally you find a new tool or notion that is so useful you wonder how you ever stitched without it. The day I started at my first sample room job, I was introduced to the Binder Foot… and my life has never been the same.
For years I used double fold binding, and stitched it up the old-fashioned way—not the easy way like Nancy shows us. Well, the humble Binder Foot is even better. It just about takes all the work out of stitching binding!
If you’re a crafty quilter, you know how often binding is used in all kinds of projects, from bags and wallets, to larger items like home décor and quilts.
If you’re an apparel sewer like me, you may decide that this is a fantastic way to finish seams in your unlined clothing. The Hong Kong finish is smart-looking, and one more opportunity for creative self-expression—just use a contrasting print that complements your garment for a little surprise on the inside.
Supplies and Notions:
- Binder Foot
- Bias Tape Maker
- Optional: Sixth Finger Stiletto
- Optional: Spray starch (I prefer Best Press)
- Optional: Fancy Footworks 2 Workbook
Some will say the Binder Foot is finicky. Although this can be true, I’ve found that all you need are a little patience and preparation. Use the following steps for great results:
- Start by preparing your bias tape. I prefer to cut my own from fabric that coordinates with my project.
- Cut the strips slightly wider, because bias stretches (and consequently gets thinner). If the directions ask that the cut piece be 1-1/2″ wide, add an extra 1/16″ to that measurement, and cut at 1-9/16″ wide.
THE GOLDEN BINDING RULE: The final width of your binding as you feed it through the foot will make or break your sewing.
- Starch fabric before cutting if you’re using slippery or loosely woven fabrics, like satin or polyester crepe, etc.
- Use a Bias Tape Maker.
- Press your binding slowly and carefully, stretching the fabric as little as possible. Starch again as you press the double folds in your strip—you’ll be grateful for the added stability later.
- Wind the binding up slowly once it’s all pressed. You will be tempted to pull and wind it tight to make a neat little roll, but this is detrimental to your binding width, as it will stretch. Try to roll it up more like a lasso, without any tension. It takes some finesse, but it will make all the difference.
- Start the binding through the machine before you feed your fabric through—just to make sure you’ve got everything lined up, and that it’s feeding through properly. You can always trim the excess when you’re finished.
- Suspend the binding gently in your right hand as you feed the binding through the foot, and ultimately through your machine. This does two things: one, it helps you control how the bias is being fed into the foot, and two, it helps you keep control of the binding tension (too much tension=stretching and misery).
Notice below how I’m helping hold the bias around the fabric? This makes it easier, too.
- Use a stiletto to help keep your fabric fed through the foot and in its place between your binding.
- Check out Fancy Footworks 2, by Nancy Zieman, for a fully illustrated, step-by-step process for using this handy little foot. Nancy explains how to adjust your Binder Foot and use a Bias Tape Maker, plus in-depth how-tos are included for 11 other specialty feet. Keep this workbook close to your machine for easy reference.
Thanks to Emily Jansson.
—The Nancy’s Notions Team
Go slowly. Be patient. Always cut extra bias strips. Good things come with practice. You’ll be a binding ace in no time!
Bye for now,
E. Ann
Thanks for the tips. I have a project ready to work on now that includes binding. Will try this for a more professional looking finish.
Carrie S
OMG I love that presser foot…. See you in Beaver Dam Shop,, hopefully in stock…..
Joan
Hi Nancy, I am getting to like making my own binding. I used to use purchased packs but that doesn’t compliment the project. I love this new tool. Does it work for any width binding?
I have a question…when using the bias tape maker..is there one side of the bias that is a bit larger in width??? (unable to tell). Would you have to determine that when using the “binder foot”??? When I used the ready made, one side was a bit larger so that it could “catch” on the reverse?????
Nancy Zieman
Joan,
The bias tape maker does not make uneven widths of bias tape. You might consider using this technique where a tool isn’t needed. http://www.nancyzieman.com/blog/quilting-2/how-to-sew-quilt-binding-2/
Sharon Carbine
I have not used my binder foot yet. With your tips, I’m ready to try it. Thank you!
Sandra Rutherford
Hi Nancy
So here is a question that quilters might want answered as well.
If you were to make this dress… The black is velvet which I was told was appliquéd onto the dress. How do you applique without the edges being raw or do you use a stitch by hand that makes it look neat and there is no fraying.
Thank you
Sandi
Carol
I have seen this foot and wondered if it really worked. I think it needs to be added to my must have lists. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Patty
a straight edge only looks easy. What do you do when you get to corners? Quilts have corners.
Emily J.
Hi Patty,
One industrial technique for corners (and this was the technique I used most often in the sample room), was to treat each edge as a separate piece to bind.
So I might bind the top and bottom edges first, trim the ends, and then bind the left and right edges, double-turning the tails under and securing at either end. Does that make sense?
I really love this foot for Hong Kong tailoring and sewing accessories. For quilting, I might suggest the Stitch-in-the-Ditch foot, if you want perfect, right-angled corners without double-turned ends. 🙂
-Emily J.
Linda Daniel
I can’t tell hardly anything about the tutorial. Some of it I can. I can’t tell what is going on when she is sewing the binding on – the camera is not close enough. A video would be much better in my opinion.
Arline Bivins
As a beginner quilter the BINDER FOOT will be an asset to my already growing feet supply. Thank you for the Tutorial it was very informative.
Starla
Wow, I love it. Have to try this!
Mary Ann Heintz
Will have to try this. Looks easy.
Patricia King
How cool! Sew many tools, sew little time!
Alissa
I also have a question about corners. I have used this for the straight parts and it’s fantastic! Now how do you work a corner that isn’t a curve? I haven’t found a tutorial for that yet.
Emily J.
Hi Alissa!
One industrial technique for corners (and this was the technique I used most often in the sample room), was to treat each edge as a separate piece to bind.
So I might bind the top and bottom edges first, trim the ends, and then bind the left and right edges, double-turning the tails under and securing at either end. Does that make sense?
Alissa
Yes Emily that makes total sense! I’m definitely going to have to try it. Thanks, you just made binding a whole lot easier!
Sue Proffitt
This foot is new to me, but looks like it can really do the job . It will be my next purchase.
MarleneC--Alaska
I, too, have questions about using this on a quilt. What do you do at corners? How to you connect the two ends of the binding?
Emily J.
Hi Marlene,
One industrial technique for corners (and this was the technique I used most often in the sample room), was to treat each edge as a separate piece to bind.
So I might bind the top and bottom edges first, trim the ends, and then bind the left and right edges, double-turning the tails under and securing at either end. Does that make sense?
For a continuous piece of binding that goes all around your sewing (this works best with rounded corners), begin by pulling the double-folded tail through the foot, and let it hang loose. Then begin stitching from the center of one long edge, going all the way around the project. When you get close to your starting point, trim the tail right to the edge of your piece, and stitch past the starting point, back-tacking to secure.
NOW, trim your excess binding so that there’s about a 1-1/2″ tail and remove from the machine. Fold the end of the tail inward about 1/2″ (so the raw edge is encased), and fold around the edge of your project (it should be past the beginning, where you started binding). Now just topstitch from where you ended the stitching, past the folded raw edge and back-tack. Phew! Does that make sense? 🙂 Wish I could post some pics here…