Sew an Invisible Zipper the Absolute Easiest Way
Sew it simple. Sew to have fun. How? It’s straightforward after you learn The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew! This time, learn how to insert an invisible zipper. To seamlessly—pun intended—insert an invisible zipper into the seam use this modified approach, attaching the facing before sewing the zipper. It’s a new approach and one of Nancy Zieman’s absolute easiest sewing tips.
How to Insert an Invisible Zipper
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the top or dress.
- Fuse interfacing to the front and back neckline facing fabrics.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing pieces.
- Do not stitch the center back seam at this point.
- Align the facing to the garment, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch the facing to the neckline.
- Grade the seam allowances, using a pinking blade with a rotary cutter for the fastest and easiest results.
- Press the seam allowances toward the facing.
- Understitch, stitching the seam allowances to the facing. Use a multizigzag.
- Flatten out the zipper tape, pressing the teeth to the outside.
- Place a piece of tape or a pin above the zipper stop on one side of the zipper.
- Mark the 5/8″ seam allowances along both sides of the center back seam. Begin marking at the neckline seam, and continue marking the length of the zipper opening.
- Align one side of the zipper tape to the corresponding side of the dress, meeting the zipper teeth to the 5/8″ marking and placing the zipper top slightly below the neckline seam.
- Pin one side of the zipper to the fabric.
- Attach the Invisible Zipper Foot. Starting at the neckline seam, position the presser foot on top of the zipper tape with the needle stitching along side of the zipper teeth.
- After stitching, close the zipper to check that the zipper stop is directly below the neckline seam.
- Align the second half of the zipper at the top of the neckline, placing the remaining side of the zipper at the same distance from the top of the neckline.
- Align the zipper teeth to the marking; pin. Then, stitch the zipper to the remaining side of the dress/top.
- After stitching, check to make certain the neckline edges align.
- Fold the facing over the zipper tape; hand stitch.
- Pin the lower portion of the seam from the hem to the end of the zipper.
- Move the invisible zipper foot completely to the left of the needle. Stitch from the zipper stopping point to the hem.
- Ta dah!
The Invisible Zipper technique, plus much more is printed in The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
Kudos to Diane Dhein, the editor, and Laure Noe, the illustrator, for making this book possible.
All of Nancy’s favorite sewing tips are in one book.
The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew chapters include:
- Sewing Notions
- Sewing Machine Confidence
- Serger Spotlight
- Patterns
- Fabric Facts
- Sewing Basics
- Beyond the Basics
Watch Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Three) on Sewing With Nancy online.
For your chance to win a copy of The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew from Nancy’s Notions, leave a comment sharing your most common sewing challenge.
Happy Sewing,
Team Nancy Zieman
Nancy Zieman Productions, LLC.
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Gail Beam
Zippers, buttonholes, and facings are the most challenging for me, but Nancy makes it look so simple with her tips and techniques.
Carolyn Solomon
I remember when “invisible ” zippers came on the market, back in the 1960’s. I never used one in a garment but would now, thanks to the instruction from this post.
Carolyn Solomon
Excellent instructions and photos. I remember when “invisible” zippers were first on the market, back in the 60’s. Bever tried it then, but would now. Thanks!
Rita Skraba
My most problematic sewing issue is zippers. They always intimidate me.
REBEKAH LILLY
I would love to share the easy sewing methods in this book with my daughter who is loving to sew. The biggest challenge I have is not with sewing, but in figuring out what the patterns are talking about and choosing the correct size!
Donna Fecteau
Zippers have always been an issue for me so I usually sew pull over tops instead of zip up ones. Nancy does make it look easy to do.
Sandra C
I love the variations to the package directions for sewing invisible zippers. This eliminates the problems caused by putting on the facing after the zipper is inserted. I still have some challenges getting even gathering on longer lengths of fabric. Even with some of Nancy’s great suggestions gathers can be frustrating.
Patricia M Radloff
A sewing challenge with zippers , particularly in coats for me is to get them to line up on the end/top! Nancy’s tips are so very helpful & would resolve some fears of putting zippers in coats. Thank you for such excellent tips and caring on her legacy.
Joan Tilley
I sure could use this book! Easy technics are what I need for confident sewing! Thank you for all your instructions.
diane c
zippers, zippers, oh and did I mentions zippers. Hate putting them in. Can never get the stitching line straight or the tops lined up.
Susan Spiers
Zippers have & always be a challenge for me! Followed second by the placing of buttonholes! Thank you, Susan
Ann
I like this technique for sewing an invisible zipper. I usually stay away from them, but I think I would like to try this!
Marylou
Like many have said the zipper has always been a tough one for me and also facings. So many times one side is higher then the other-UGH!! I appreciate all the great tips from Nancy !
Cindy K
My biggest challenges are zippers and buttonholes.
Laura Geiser
I love Nancy’s lessons. She was a gifted woman.
Her lessons are right on and easy to understand. I’m sure her book is awesome.
Lorraine Alves
Zippers are my biggest sewing challenge. Making certain the zipper stops are aligned at the top and sewing a neat and straight seam along the zipper are my two most challenging issues. Any and all help from Nancy’s great store of knowledge is helpful.
Nell
Buttonholes are the biggest challenge for me.
Lorna DeSantis
Most common sewing challenge? thread tension!
Mary L
Zippers! Not sewing into original projects but rather replacing broken ones!
Candice C.
I finally have mastered the invisible zip, but a lap zipper is another story! My biggest challenge though, is getting the waist seam (where bodice attaches to skirt) to match after installing any zipper!
Joanna
Unfortunately, I have purposely avoided sewing ANYTHING with zippers and buttonholes because I just can’t get it…which leaves a lot of pullover tops!
rhonda grallnick
good information on zippers
April
I too avoid zipper
Teri
Sewing with knits is my biggest challenge.
Susan Biles
My biggest challenge is sewing plackets.
Ann West
I too have trouble sewing zippers.
Clovis
Zippers.
rebecca jallings
Buttonholes–getting them lined up so they match. And zippers–getting the two sides to line up. Although both are easier with my new Pfaff…
Anne Z.
My biggest sewing challenge is sewing a neat looking hem in knit fabrics.
Sandra N
Zippers are my biggest challenge!
Rosemary
I hate sewing darts, I keep getting indents at the peak.
Kathryn Englebretsen
Zippers. Always have been the biggest challenge. Except maybe buttonholes. Buttonholes are the reason I always look for patterns that use zippers.
beth d.
zippers are my most challenging to do. hopefully the directions you describe is easy.
Bonnye
I love to put in zippers especially invisible ones. They look so nice on a garment. Buttonholes are a challenge. Since I have a new sewing machine it is easier because I can program the size buttonhole that I would like.
WinnieW
I am most challenged by time constraints and trying to get anything done if I am in a hurry! If I am patient anything is doable! But it would always help to learn Nancy’s ways to sew the easiest ways. She was a master at sewing!
Hannah W
I struggle to attach a shirt collar to the stand…
Martha Morgan
Zippers have always been a challenge for me and I only feel success when installing an invisible zipper. So this is a very helpful blog.
Rosie
Buttonholes are my biggest challenge. I try not to sew things needing buttonholes.
Susan
Zippers are a challenge in that I am able to sew them into a garment, but don’t always get that nice crisp casing. This book would certainly help with that issue!
Linda H
Zippers are a challenge for me. This book would be very helpful.
Janine
I’ve never had an invisible zipper go in smoothly. Going to give Nancy’s method a try.
Karen
I don’t like doing lap zippers.
Cheryl Parker
Sewing with Nancy was always on my Saturday morning routine. Zippers can be a challenge but this technique makes is so simple. I can’t wait until the next project with a zipper! Thanks!
CAROL
I REMEMBER SEWING “INVISIBLE” ZIPPERS WHEN MAKING DRESSES; HOWEVER, DID NOT HAVE THAT “NIFTY ZIPPER FOOT.” I’D LIKE TO GET THE BOOK. THANK YOU!
Bonnie
My most common sewing challenge is making pattern adjustments to achieve a good fit. I am sure Nancy has some great tips to solve this problem. Thanks for the great giveaway!
Mary Brock
Nice looking finish on any type of zipper has always been a challenge also buttonholes
Noreen
Getting a pattern to fit well is a big challenge for me. Nancy makes sewing issues look so easy.
Janet johnson
I haven’t tried an invisible zipper. I guess it’s time I tried one. Nancy’s book looks really detailed with so many illustrations.
Michelle Hall
I have never tried an invisible zipper but this makes it look pretty easy
Dorene
Nancy has been my reference since I began sewing in the 1960’s. I faithfully watched her programs; she was a calming factor for my apprehension. She was a gifted lady. My biggest problem is my lack of confidence; I feel that I sew “by the seat of my pants” instead of knowing all the steps. That is why I have depended on Nancy sharing her knowledge.
sonja D
Welt pockets and Bound buttonholes I avoid them like the plague.
Kay Connor
Topstitching around curves and getting it even challenges me. I think I am in too much of a hurry…
Catherine Dorsey
Lately, putting in that invisible zipper was a challenge. It had been years since I used an invisible one. She does make sewing seem like a breeze. We are thankful for Nancy’s experience written for everyone to understand
Brenda Foreman
I have always wondered how the Japanese methods to reduce bulk – for example in pocket flaps, by placing the seam in a different place than the edge, how that works. I’ve seen it once and would love a refresher. Besom pockets with welts, the easiest way to make them. Bound buttonholes are just small double welt bound openings. Made them in high school and figure there has to be a better way these days. All help is appreciated.
Berenice
I can do lapped zippers with one hand behind my back, but after my first experience in my teens of sewing the invisible zipper in facing the wrong way (don’t ask!), I think I will give it another try. I have a dress that needs a replacement zipper next to the machine right now.
Beverly
I have sewn for years, but love learning new and better ways of doing things for a nice finished product. Zippers can be such a challenge that many sewers I know just refuse to make items requiring zippers.
Carol
Buttonholes have always been a challenge.