Serge a Warm Pullover Top
I truly love to sew; yet my schedule—like yours—doesn’t always allow time for this pleasure. When designing and making this trio of knit tops, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to cut out the pattern and sew the top during an afternoon. Follow these streamline steps included in the pattern and you, too, will have time to enjoy your sewing passion with a comfy, trendy knit top.
Last week, I shared my new sewing pattern from The McCall Pattern Company in this blog post. The first top (the diagonal stripe top) is created using a lightweight knit fabric, a sewing machine and a wobble stitch. This week, we’ll use the same four easy pattern pieces to create a warm fleece pullover with a serger technique.
Review: In options A and B, styles feature differing hem lengths, which make this top excellent to wear with tights, jeans or skirts. The styles are also drafted for sewing machine stitching or serger construction. Shown in style C, the top has an asymmetrical wrap across the body. The pullover is a truly versatile piece.
The pullover top may be sewn on a serger or a sewing machine set to a wobble stitch. And the best part: The pattern only has four pieces!
Construction Details
Center Front and Center Back Exposed Serged Seams
- Choose thread that coordinates or matches the fabric. Set serger for 4-thread overlock stitch with the width setting at “M” or a 1/4″ stitch width.
- Test the serger settings and thread color choices on a scrap of fabric before serging the actual fabric pieces. Adjust the stitch length to achieve the desired appearance.
- Serge outer edges of Center Front and Center Back seams.
Note from Nancy: When serging fleece or other thick knit fabrics, beginning serging on an “anchor cloth,” an extra piece of fabric. Align the project fabric next to this starter fabric and proceed to serge the edge or seam. Later, clip off the anchor cloth and save it for the next seam. This little tip assures that the beginning of the seam or edges have perfectly even stitches.
- Seal thread ends at hemline with a seam sealant.
- Stack Front pieces—right sides up—with a 1/2″ overlap, aligning the outer or left-needle thread stitching lines of both pieces.
- Straight stitch, or wobble stitch, sewing along the right-needle thread.
Note from Nancy: With exposed serged edges, it is difficult to have an even stopping and starting point when serging in the round along hemlines and outer edges of the collar and cuffs. For this reason, I serge the outer edges before sewing the side seams. I hope you’ll like that approach, too!
Collar and Neckline
The following photos feature the black and white knit fabric, but the construction for the red fleece pullover follows the same steps.
- Align edges and pin Center Back seam of Collar, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch or serge seam.
- Press seam flat; then press open. Press serged seam to one side.
- Serge along the hemline.
- Press under 1/4″ and topstitch.
Attach Collar to Neckline
- Quarter-mark the neckline of the collar and neckline of the top. To quarter-mark, fold the opening in half and in half again, placing a pin at each of the four folds.
- Align edges and pin the WRONG side of the collar to the RIGHT side of the neckline at each quarter mark.
- Stitch or serge with 1/4″ seam allowances.
- Press seam flat; then press toward the top.
- Topstitch seam to top.
- Fold top of collar toward the neckline.
Underarm Seam and Hem
- Align edges and pin Front to Back along underarm seams, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch or serge with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
- Press seam flat; then press open. Press serged seam to one side.
Cuff with Exposed Edges—View B
- Align edges and pin one side seam of cuff, right sides together.
- Stitch or serge one side seam. Press seam flat; then press to one side. Serge outer edge of cuff.
- Seal thread ends with a seam sealant.
- Align and pin remaining side seam, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch or serge with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
- Press seam flat; press serged seam to one side.
Attach Cuff to Sleeve
- Align and pin WRONG side of cuff to the RIGHT side of the sleeve, matching edges and matching notches.
- Stitch or serge with 1/4″ seam allowances.
- Turn top right side out. Fold up cuff hem and align with the cuff seam. Hand stitch top cuff to sleeve at each side seam.
Demystify the fear about working with knit fabrics. You can sew them easily and with confidence with tips and techniques in my book: Sew Knits with Confidence. Sewing With Nancy also has a two-part series featuring knits. Watch Part One and Part Two online.
Watch Sew Knits with Confidence (Part One and Part Two)on Sewing With Nancy online.
To watch Sewing With Nancy on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone, download the app.
For a chance to win a copy of pattern M7252, from The McCall Pattern Company, please leave a comment below sharing what knit fabric you’d choose to make this new fall fashion top. Two patterns will be randomly given away—must be US residents.
Bye for now,
carla j
I have a floral print that I like, the price was so great at an annual sale, I bought enough for 2 tops. Short sleeves planned for one of the tops, I think the other would have a nice drape in view C of your pattern. Hope I am lucky enough to win a pattern.
Alice
I have a terry cloth striped fabric hiding in my stash for the past 2 years that will be perfect in this pattern. Thanks for a great design Nancy!
Bev M
I have a length of nubby fashion knit in my stash, which would be perfect for this top.
Barb D
I am just getting back to sewing after many, many years. I would love to find a nice soft fleece to try my hand on this pattern. They look so comfy.
Debra
Love the look of the finished garment! I don’t have any knits in my stash for this. ..so I will need to shop for a suitable knit.
Gayle W-G
Looks fast & fun!
Terry A.
I would have to go shopping for a good knit to use for this, which I will gladly do. 🙂
Ronda
I have a green knit that would be beautiful as view C. Would love to win this pattern!
Melissa
Love this!
Beverly
I would love to try serging some of these tops for fall and winter. Thank you Nancy for all the sewing advise over the past 30 years.
Sharon H
This is just what I need for this winter! Quick, easy, comfortable, and looks good….not to mention an excuse to use my Evolution serger. Thank you Nancy
Stella
I would love to make one in school colors in warm fleece fabric. It would look better than a hooded sweatshirt does on me. Thank you for the tutorial.
Charlene
I am sure it took more fabric to sew the black and white striped pullover. I really enjoy this pattern; I have just gotten back into sewing since my retirement. Put me in your pattern drawing. Thank you Charlene
Carol Dillman
I think I would choose a navy or burgundy fleece for for View C. I think it would get a lot of use.
Connie Jordan
Would love to win this pattern, it is very elegant looking for a warm cozy top.
Fran Johnson
Dear Nancy,
Love this new pattern. It is on my shopping list – just in case I do not win. I’m thinking of a soft knit in a rich jewel tone for fall and winter and a pastel or floral knit for spring. And for certain something in black and white for all the time. This pattern is really going to be one of my favorites.
Thanks for your great blog and wonderful TV program. I have learned so much from you over all the years. Your books are great too.
Connie W
I like the black/white stripe top for its sophisticated look. It’s very current for today’s fashion sense, as are the other views. I have steered away from knits for so long, but willing to give this pattern a try.
Carolyn H
I am considering making this as a Christmas gift and for myself.
Judy H
Thank you Nancy for some more GREAT tips and an opportunity to win a versatile new pattern. I heard you comment on “single” knits in one of your programs and I know that dates me, but I have a few pieces of nicer colors of “single” knits so will use those up (finally) making a couple of these sharp looking tops.
Lynn C.
I will look for a jersey knit that has a burgundy stripe.
sherri
I want to make this top in fleece. I have a lightweight fleece that would work well.
Marie
What is a wobble stitch?
SusanR
A wobble stitch is a quite narrow zigzag stitch that has some stretch to it, but on the right side of the fabric it looks like a straight stitch was used.
mary emerling young
Where has this pattern been all my life! Love it and I think it will blast a lot of stashes across this country!
Karen Davis
This looks like a great pattern to make with fleece. I have the cutest print of puppy dogs that would make an adorable top to wear on the weekend! Hope I win the pattern!
mary emerling young
Where has this pattern been all my life? It looks like it is going to be a big stash buster across this country!
b fustin
I love the way this pattern flows over the body.It looks warm and cozy. Fleece would be perfect for a fabric choice.
Cathy
This top would make a great cover up for going to and from yoga class. I would love to make it in a micro fleece or even a knit jersey.
Marilyn Mundt
I love this pattern. It looks so comfortable and easy to sew. I plan on buying this pattern if I don’t win. It will be a great “go to” pattern/top that will be great in all occasions! I would use it for many knit fabrics. A jersey knit would be very elegant in a design of the dark colors. Very dressy and the material would just flow.
Louise Johnson
There is no way that I could decide in less than two weeks which fabric(s) I would use for this pattern — there are too many choices that would give great and diverse results. It is a pattern to be used many times in many ways and fabrics.
Louise Johnson
How could I possibly decide which fabric I would use to make one of these three options in less than two weeks? It would be great in so many different knits. I would use the pattern many time with many different knits.
Starla
I just found a beautiful piece of fleece in a blue and black geometric print.
Barbara
What a really nice looking top, great for winter wear. I have a teal piece of fleece that I think would look really nice sewn up with this pattern. Hope it is my turn this win 🙂
Melanie
I have a lovely Autumn “brown” knit piece and a “marine” blue fleece…decisions, decisions, which one should I create first?!!!
Zoe
I have the perfect piece of purple fleece I would love to make View C with. I almost ordered this pattern yesterday. I’ll wait to see if I win the pattern, but I’m definitely getting it one way or the other. 🙂
Janet Quintiliani
I have a purple and black lightweight knit with tiny flat Ruffles in it. It would look spectacular with tights or leggings.
I am substituting now and need things I can wear and jump into but that are still “cool”. Kids would live this!
Janet Quintiliani
I have a purple and black lightweight knit with tiny flat Ruffles in it. It would look spectacular with tights or leggings.
I am substituting now and need things I can wear and jump into but that are still “cool”. Kids would love this!
Nancy
I love doing tops on the serger!
Chris Reeske
I’ll make it in a medium weight knit. I think fleece might be too warm even in winter for So. Cal.
Bonnye
I would love to make it in fleece material. I especially like the strips.
Arlene Murphy
I am not usually lucky, but can I buy this on you website?
The style would be a great addition to any wardrobe.
Thank you Nancy.
jann
I love this pattern. i would use a light knit in the winter months due to living in CA. I wonder if you could use a rayon for spring-summer.
Karen
I would make this top in some the knits in my stash.
Sharlene
I have an awesome ombré stretchy knit fabric that would work great with this pattern. I have been looking for a pattern to show off this fabric and I think this is it
Carmela Kube
I can hardly wait to make this sweater top with my new serger.
Carolyn pullen
I love the looks of this top! I would make it using a fleese material. I would want to make it with a couple of different materials just to see what it would look like. I needed a pattern thst I could use my serger on and I think this would fit the bill.
Dorie
I am on a quest to destash and the sooner the better! I love that it’s not a suffocating turtle neckline. This pattern surely should cause me to re-introduce my serger to myself?
Pamela Smith
Great pattern and it looks ‘sew’ easy. Can’t wait to get started. Thanks
Reba Mahaffey
Looks good, but even better seems simple to make.
Kathy
I have a lot of ‘slinky knit’ that I bet would work great in this pattern. Using the serger would be perfect too. I see some rolled hems as a possibility too! I also have some fleece that would work so this pattern can be used for many types of knit fabric! I can’t wait to try it!
Amy S
I’m thinking I would use a french terry knit in different warm colors for a fall wardrobe — mustard, cinnamon, evergreen, maroon, beige, perhaps a soothing warm grey would be nice, too.
Cathy Barron
My first impulse would be a slinky knit, but I wonder what a minky fabric would be like? I would love to have a chance to find out with this pattern. Nancy, thank you for your advice and instruction. You are an inspiration!
Kelly Sasman
I purchased a beautiful green knit when I was at your Sewing Weekend in Beaver Dam 2 years ago that I still haven’t used. It is sew perfect for this patter!
CheryL Hersh
I would make this top out of velour. I think it would go well with the style of the pattern.
Cathy
Velour does sound like a good choice for this top, thanks for suggesting! I was also thinking of a thick terry-like fleece to make a top that you could snuggle up in on a cold, snowy day!
Jan
I haven’t sewn with knits. I have that knit “fear factor”. This looks like the time to try with this pattern and my new baby lock serger.
Bara
I have a piece of red polartec fleece that I have saved for “just the right pattern” and this it! I, too, have been a fan for all these decades and want to express my gratitude, BRAVISIMO! BRAVISIMO! I have learned so much from you and enjoy the sewing toys (aids) I have purchased from you. Thank you, beautiful lady, you truly are one of the most beautiful women I see or know — not only on the outside, but through and through!
Berenice
This looks perfect to wear to a football game. Definitely a fleece, easy to clean! Might do one in some jersey I acquired forever ago!
Lori Herriman
I don’t sew garments but would really like to give this pattern a try. I’ve afraid to try clothing!! Have a new serger and thought I would use that.
Dawn Jones
I haven’t tried seeing with knit fabrics yet, but I would love to try. I think I would use a jersey knit. Have a great day!
Margie E. Horton
I will make top out of fleece and another out of jersey. This is my kind of top. I’m in the process of loosing weight and this will go all winter.
Martha
Love the pattern. A good start to start sewing for my self again. Will probably use my serger and a light weight knit
chrys e
Oh My!! I am in love with these patterns. I am just starting out sewing for myself…I’ve been experimenting with jersey knit fabric.
June Codding
I have a beautiful blue nobby knit with flecks of silver thread that will really make a beautiful top with this pattern. Bought it because I liked the fabric but had no idea how I would use it for until I saw this pattern. Thanks for all your ideas thru the years.
Tina
what a cute top. I like the tip to sew the exposed serger bottom prior to serving seams. Solves an issue i have had, too.