Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along, Part Two

Nancy Zieman’s Knit Dress Sew Along 2015 | McCalls M7152 | #NZKnitDressSAL

Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along, Part Two

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Part two of the Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along focuses on the basic construction of the dress. Part three, next week, will focus on finishing techniques. If you missed the Sew Along Kick-Off or Part One: Cutting the Dress, you can review them here. You can always stitch ahead.

Nancy Zieman’s Knit Dress Sew Along 2015 | McCalls M7152 | #NZKnitDressSAL
Let’s get started. At this point we have all the dress pattern pieces and interfacing pieces cut, with darts marked. It should be a quick evening’s work to create the basic construction seamlines in the dress.

Prepare Darts

  • Fold the dart by pinching the dart point and matching each dart leg on the cut edge of the garment.
  • Pin the fold.
  • Mark a straight stitching guide by pressing a small piece of freezer paper to the wrong-side of the dress, connecting the clips at each dart leg and the marked apex point of the dart.
  • Press the freezer paper, shiny side down.

1 StitchDart Knit Dress Sew Along

  • Stitch the dart leg, using the straight edge as a guide.
  • Stitch from the cut garment edge into the dart apex.
2 StitchDart Knit Dress Sew Along
  • Finish the dart by lifting the presser foot and moving the stitching line slightly inside the dart point.
  • Backstitch.

3 StitchDart Knit Dress Sew Along

  • Repeat these steps for the remaining dart.
  • Press the dart down towards the lower edge of the dress.

Build Dress

  • Pin the yoke to the dress top, matching right sides.
Note from Nancy: Remember, the shoulders are asymmetrical. Make sure the back yoke matches the dress back and front yoke matches the dress front. Marking the wrong side of any solid colored knit will help keep the pattern pieces organized.
4 Pin Yoke Knit Dress Sew Along
  • Use an overlock stitch on a serger or a wobble stitch on a sewing machine to join the yoke to the dress body with a 5/8″ seam allowance, matching right sides.
Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along - Wobble Stitch

Note from Nancy: A wobble stitch allows the seam to slightly stretch, yet appear as a straight-stitched seam on the right side. What’s a wobble stitch? My quilting friend, Betty Cotton, taught me this term and how to create a wobble stitch by setting a zigzag stitch to the 0.5 width and a 2.5–3.0 length. That slight zigzag is comparable to having 5% spandex in a knit fabric!

5a Serge Yoke Knit Dress Sew Along
  • Press the seam allowance up towards the neckline.
  • Topstitch the dress yoke seam.
  • Reinforce the shoulder seam on the yoke front and back by applying a fusible interfacing strip cut from the scraps of tricot interfacing.
  • Apply reinforcing interfacing to the fabric wrong sides.
6a Interface Shoulder Knit Dress Sew Along
6 Interface Shoulder Knit Dress Sew Along
  • Serge or wobble stitch the right shoulder seam using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
7 ShoulderSeam Knit Dress Sew Along

Prepare Facings

  • Match the asymmetrical shapes of the fusible interfacing to the facings.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s directions to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each facing.
8 Prepare Facing Knit Dress Sew Along
  • Serge or wobble stitch to join the right shoulder seam using a 5/8″ seam allowance, right sides together.
  • Serge or zigzag stitch along the facing’s lower edge for a more professionally finished look.
9 SergeFacingEdges One Shldr Knit Dress Sew Along



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Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Pattern McCalls M7152Don’t forget to pin a picture from this blog post and tell all your sewing friends.

The more people who sew along with this project, the more fun it will be. I look forward to sewing along with you!

Watch Sew Knits with Confidence on Sewing With Nancy online.

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Sew Knits with Confidence Sewing With Nancy streaming videoSee the entire Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along schedule online here.

Join Nancy Zieman's Knit Dress Sew Along Featuring McCalls 7152Bye for now,

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Nancy Zieman—author, pattern designer, businesswoman, producer, and national sewing authority—is the host of the popular show Sewing With Nancy®, which appears exclusively on public television stations across the United States and Canada. Follow Nancy’s blog at and sign up to receive Nancy’s E-News for the latest news in sewing, quilting, and creating.
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  • Carol Huelsman
    May 12, 2015

    please let us know how nancy is doing with her cancer treatment.

    Thank you Carol

  • Betty Harden
    May 12, 2015

    Nancy, my thoughts and prayers are with you. And God speed on your recovery. I have your book and know what challenges you have faced and are still facing. Please get well soon.

    My love, Betty

  • amelia
    May 12, 2015


  • amelia
    May 12, 2015

    Nancy, Get well soon. May God give you long and healthy life. amen

  • Martha
    May 14, 2015

    Nancy is so positive about everything. She adds a lot of joy to my life. My prays are with her. We need more more people like her.

  • zoraida
    May 14, 2015

    that is great knit is easy to sew not heavy for summer can be light knit too, if I am wrong please let me know.

  • eginter
    May 15, 2015

    Thanks for the ideals found 4 yards at a thrift store for 1.99 have the black how Caan I go wrong! only trouble not enough hrs in my day, sew,garden,clean,meals,nap! Guess I will forget the cleaning part!

  • Charlote
    May 16, 2015

    Nancy, you have given us all so much joy with your wonderful program for years now! Thank you so much! As many others have said we feel like we know and love you…please take time for yourself to heal, and know we are all looking forward to seeing you back on the air feeling better. As you said you’ll get by with a little help from your wonderful friends like Mary Mulari and others! Know that we’re all praying for you each and every day and hoping you’re feeling better soon!
    Sincerely, Charlote S.

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