Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along, Part Three

Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along, Part Three

Part three of the Nancy Zieman Knit Dress Sew Along focuses on the finishing techniques. If you missed the Sew Along Kick-Off, Part One: Cutting the Dress, or Part Two: Basic Construction, you can review them here. You can always stitch ahead.

Today, we will finish the dress by applying the facings, completing the shoulder, decorative buttons, side seams, and creating the hem.

You may want to use these optional notions and supplies when sewing the last steps:

• 5-in-1 Sliding Gauge
• Point 2 Point Turner
• Non-permanent marking pen
• Hot Hemmer Seam Gauge
• The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Optional: Additional instructions for functional buttonholes)

Apply the Facing

• Pin the prepared facing to the dress yoke, matching right sides.
• Stitch the longer neckline seam first, using a 5/8″ seam allowance.

• Grade the seam allowance.

Note from Nancy: Grading is an apparel term where each fabric in the seam allowance is trimmed to a different length, creating a gradual tapering so there isn’t a ridge or lump when the garment facing is turned right side out. Generally, the garment fabric is trimmed to approximately 3/8″ and the facing is trimmed to 1/4″.

• Turn the yoke facing to the wrong side of the dress, without sewing the armhole.
• Press the seam allowances towards the yoke facing.

• Understitch the seam allowances to the facing, working from the right side of the facing.
• Use a wobble or zigzag stitch.

• Press.

• Turn the facing wrong side out, again.
• Pin the remaining armhole.
• Stitch, grade, clip, and understitch this seam.

• Turn the dress right side out through the shoulders.

• Pin the asymmetrical shoulder openings.

• Stitch using a 5/8″ seam allowance.

• Trim the excess fabric from the corners. This will provide a nice crisp corner when the facing is turned right side out.

• Turn the two shoulders right side out, using the Point 2 Point Turner to push the corners to a point.

Complete the Side Seam

• Serge or use a wobble stitch to sew each side seam. Use a 5/8″ seam allowance.
• Tack the facing to the side seam.

• Topstitch around the neck and armholes, working from the front.

Complete the Shoulder

• On the dress front yoke, use the 5-in-1 Sliding Gauge and non-permanent marking pen to mark the decorative button placement.

Note from Nancy: The closure on the shoulder is decorative, though you may choose to add real functioning buttons to the garment. If you need assistance with buttonholes, please see my blog post with video on this: The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew Buttonholes. 

• Overlap the shoulder and place pins at the determined button placement.

•  Hand sew or machine stitch three buttons in place.

Create the Hem

Note from Nancy: The dress calls for a 1″ hem along the lower edge. Try the dress on to determine your appropriate hem length.

• Press up the hem, using your favorite measuring guide. I like to use the Hot Hemmer Seam Gauge.
• Pin.

• Use a straight stitch to hem the knit dress, making sure to keep your stitching line equidistant from the folded lower edge.

Finished!

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Bye for now,

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Nancy Zieman—author, pattern designer, businesswoman, producer, and national sewing authority—is the host of the popular show Sewing With Nancy®, which appears exclusively on public television stations across the United States and Canada. Follow Nancy’s blog at NancyZieman.com/blog and sign up to receive Nancy’s E-News for the latest news in sewing, quilting, and creating.