The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew Part Three on The Best of Sewing With Nancy
Sew it simple. Sew to have fun. How? It’s straightforward after you learn Nancy Zieman’s Absolute Easiest Way to Sew! This time, Nancy shares how to insert an invisible zipper. To seamlessly—pun intended—insert an invisible zipper into the seam use this modified approach, attaching the facing before sewing the zipper. It’s a new approach and one of Nancy’s absolute easiest sewing tips.
How to Insert an Invisible Zipper into a Top, Tunic, or Dress
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Fuse Pellon Sof-Shape Interfacing to the wrong sides of front and back neckline facing fabrics.
- Stitch facing shoulder seams.
- Do not stitch the center back seam, at this point.
- Align facing to garment, right sides together, matching notches. Pin.
- Stitch facing to neckline.
- Grade seam allowances, using a 45 mm Rotary Cutter and Pinking Blade – for the fastest and easiest results.
- Press seam allowances toward facing.
- Understitch, stitching seam allowances to the facing. Use a multi-zigzag stitch!
- Flatten out the zipper tape, pressing zipper teeth to the outside.
- Place a piece of Sewers Fix It Tape above the zipper stop – on the front side of the upper left zipper.
- With a Pen Style Chaco Liner, and 5-in-1 Sliding Gauge, mark the 5/8″ seam allowances along both sides of the center back seam. Begin marking at neckline seam, and continue marking the length of the zipper opening.
- Align one side of the zipper tape to the corresponding side of the garment, right sided together, meeting zipper teeth to the 5/8″ marked line and placing top zipper teeth slightly below the neckline seam.
- Pin just this one side of the zipper – to the fabric.
- Attach an invisible Zipper Foot to sewing machine. Starting at neckline seam, position presser foot on top of zipper tape. Position needle to stitch on the zipper tape – just to the right of the zipper teeth.
- After stitching, close the zipper and check that the zipper stop is directly below the neckline seam.
- Align the second half of the zipper at the top of the neckline, right sides together, placing the remaining side of the zipper to the remaining garment edge – at the same distance from the top of the neckline.
- Align zipper teeth to the marked line. Pin. Stitch.
- After stitching close the zipper, close zipper and check that both neckline seams align.
- Fold facing over zipper tape; hand stitch with Needle and thread.
- Pin lower portion of seam from the bottom of zipper to lower hem.
- Move invisible zipper foot completely to the left of the needle. Stitch seam from the lower zipper stopping point – to the lower garment hem.
- Ta dah!
Watch Nancy Zieman’s Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Three) on Sewing With Nancy online.
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Happy Sewing!
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Lorna
Favorite tip? Start placing the zipper at the neck line hem and work down.
beth d.
the tip I most like is putting in the invisible zipper. I find it easy the way Nancy does this.
Bonnye
I like Nancy’s method of putting in an invisible zipper. I love the look of an invisible zipper.
Susan
The installation of the invisible zipper into a garment is a great tip that gives a real polished look so that there is no bunching or other boo-boo’s.
Rita Skraba
I’ve never liked zippers but this tip should help simplify the process.
Janet
I’ve never had a problem with zippers . I have never, however, used an invisible zipper before. I think it’s time I tried doing one. I will use Nancy’s instructions. I’m sure her way will be the easiest. It looks beautiful in place. Thanks. Janet
Clovis
The way Nancy puts in a zipper is amazing. My zippers are always looking lobsided.
BevM
I like these instructions for an invisible zipper, but shouldn’t space be left at the top of center back zippers for a hook and eye, or a hanging snap?
Nancy Zieman Productions, LLC
Hi Bev, Sure, for pants and skirts, you may leave space for a hook & eye closure. Nancy eliminated this step when sewing dresses/tops/tunics, with great success.
Lorraine Alves
Nancy and her team have great tips for various sewing issues. One of my favorites is the tip for making perfect points/corners by rolling/folding the seam allowance over and then stitching. I have used this technique a number of times and as Nancy had said “perfect corners each time”.
Carolyn T
My favorite tip from Nancy is sewing pointed corners. I am using this tip and my favorite tool, the Point 2 Point turner, while making non-surgical face masks.
Gail Beam
The tip I like most are her instructions on how to install a zipper. She makes it look so easy.
Barb K
Zippers can be tricky, so I like Nancy’s instructions!
Dixie
The tip I like most is putting in an invisible zipper.
Regina Coward
Thank you for this post. I have three of those invisible zipper sewing feet. Thanks again for opening up my understanding about these zipper feet.