Learn the Absolute Easiest Way to Sew Zippers
Sew it simple. Sew to have fun. How? It’s straightforward after you learn The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew! This time, learn how to insert an invisible zipper. To seamlessly—pun intended—insert an invisible zipper into the seam use this modified approach, attaching the facing before sewing the zipper. It’s a new approach and one of Nancy’s absolute easiest sewing tips.
How to Insert an Invisible Zipper
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the top or dress.
- Fuse interfacing to the front and back neckline facing fabrics.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing pieces.
- Do not stitch the center back seam at this point.
- Align the facing to the garment, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch the facing to the neckline.
- Grade the seam allowances, using a pinking blade with a rotary cutter for the fastest and easiest results.
- Press the seam allowances toward the facing.
- Understitch, stitching the seam allowances to the facing. Use a multizigzag.
- Flatten out the zipper tape, pressing the teeth to the outside.
- Place a piece of tape or a pin above the zipper stop on one side of the zipper.
- Mark the 5/8″ seam allowances along both sides of the center back seam. Begin marking at the neckline seam, and continue marking the length of the zipper opening.
- Align one side of the zipper tape to the corresponding side of the dress, meeting the zipper teeth to the 5/8″ marking and placing the zipper top slightly below the neckline seam.
- Pin one side of the zipper to the fabric.
- Attach the Invisible Zipper Foot. Starting at the neckline seam, position the presser foot on top of the zipper tape with the needle stitching along side of the zipper teeth.
- After stitching, close the zipper to check that the zipper stop is directly below the neckline seam.
- Align the second half of the zipper at the top of the neckline, placing the remaining side of the zipper at the same distance from the top of the neckline.
- Align the zipper teeth to the marking; pin. Then, stitch the zipper to the remaining side of the dress/top.
- After stitching, check to make certain the neckline edges align.
- Fold the facing over the zipper tape; hand stitch.
- Pin the lower portion of the seam from the hem to the end of the zipper.
- Move the invisible zipper foot completely to the left of the needle. Stitch from the zipper stopping point to the hem.
- Ta dah!
The Invisible Zipper technique, plus much more is printed in The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
Kudos to Diane Dhein, the editor, and Laure Noe, the illustrator, for making this book possible.
All of Nancy’s favorite sewing tips are in one book.
The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew chapters include:
- Sewing Notions
- Sewing Machine Confidence
- Serger Spotlight
- Patterns
- Fabric Facts
- Sewing Basics
- Beyond the Basics
Watch Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Three) on Sewing With Nancy online.
For your chance to win a copy of The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew from Nancy’s Notions, leave a comment sharing your most common sewing challenge.
Happy Sewing,
Team Nancy Zieman
Nancy Zieman Productions, LLC.
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Gail Beam
Putting in zippers and sewing around curves are two of my challenges, but I have many others! This book looks like a really handy book to have.
Mette H. V. Skogstrom
Zippers are difficult to me, so this book would be a great hjelp, in audition to the instructive videos, which I love.
Ennis A
I’ve been sewing apparel for years. But my challenge still seems to be getting a good start on projects. More often than not I end up having to rip out one of the first seams sewn!!! But then I know I’m good and continue on. Love sewing!!! Nancy has certainly been motivation and inspiration through the years……
Linda Koenig
I am just going to learn to sew and zippers looks the hardest
Sally Howard
Sewing is a very interesting creature. Sometimes it is a love,
hate relationship. Finding the best way to sew something is definitely something I want to know. This book I would love to win
Karen
I have always been afraid of zippers! When anyone asks me to replace a zipper for them I always reply “I don’t do zippers”. If there is an easy way I sure would like to learn it.
Karen J
Sewing consistently straight is my challenge. I’ve used seam guides, tape, specialty feet,, etc. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Would love to win this book as it is no longer available on Amazon.
Cyndy Lacey
For me it’s sewing in piping. I cannot get it snugly into the seams without it having ripples. Thanks for the chance to win the book!
Judy K
What a great resource! Zippers are always a challenge but I find fitted waistbands to be just as difficult.
Enid
My granddaughter has decided to start sewing. This would be a great reference book for both of us.
Ann C
Zippers are by far my most challenging part of garment construction. No matter how hard I try, I always manage to get one side of the zipper higher than the other at the neckline so I have to start all over. This book sure would be a help. 🙂
Linda Pearce
I avoid zippers all the time. They just never turn out to look right. I also have problems sewing straight lines but I keep trying. Would love to win for the tips this offers. Thank you for the opportunity.
Dona Langdon
Zippers have been my biggest struggle since I began sewing!
MaryLou W
As many have already said zippers can be a big challenge but sometimes I have difficulty with correct sizing for shoulders to fit just right and getting facings to match as they should.
Max
Zippers, and some curves to look nice–some days the garment goes together smoothly, some days, not so much.
Dorothy Martin
As always, beautiful photographs of this wonderful technique. Thank you!
Thunder
Zippers !! I avoid them, I just can’t seem to get them straight… I sure would like to be able to sew some purses and pouches with them. I have a dress pattern that I have been saving for ages, in hopes of learning to do a good zipper.
Thanks for the chance, I bet the book would help.
Joyce West
Zippers and set in sleeves have always been challenging for me. Thank you for the opportunity to win this book.
Terry
Zippers on costumes with net overlay skirts.
Donna Fecteau
Collars so I avoid them! and set in sleeves. I need this book to help me.
Linda Erickson
Setting in sleeves is usually my biggest challenge. Surprisingly, zippers are not at the top of my list but then again I haven’t done a zipper in a while….
Thanks!
Alicia Olivarez
My biggest challenge is sewing a straight line. Then finding enough time to sew. My biggest fans are my grandkids
Stephanie Franco
inserting a zipper so that both side of the dress fabric are of equal distance when opening a sewn in zipper.
Cathie Ross
I have quilted so long, garment sewing is almost a complete mind block. But, I have a new Grandbaby Girl and her Christmas dress needed a zipper. Was totally off in left field, scratching my head. This foot that was used looks like a good investment.
Kathy Reese
Sewing with specialty fabrics – satin, minky, leather, etc.
Cindy Masek
Zippers are my least favorite – often wavy or I find the “flaps” too wide or off center.
Just last night I put one in and it was flat, centered and great – but facing the inside – sigh. Luckily it was on a craft project and easy to re-do. I had been doing the attach to seam allowance method and laid it down wrong!
With the traditional way there is the struggle with picking open the basted seam. Its basted, Even being careful, the fabric is often damaged or cut when pulling out the basting. This method looks much better!!
judit
The most challenging adding zipper in side seam on bias cut circle skirt. super slinky sheer knit. Hard time keeping seam flat and pucker free. Used tape but made area too stiff compared to the rest of the skirt. Stood out
judit
Noreen
Sewing a good looking collar has always been a challenge.
Simone
I have always avoided zippers and I have either used buttons and buttonholes instead or I just don’t sew patterns that require them, so I’ll be looking forward to trying this technique. I’d love this book to streamline and improve my sewing!
Bonnye
I was making a dress for my son’s wedding. The invisible zipper really gave me trouble. This information could have saved me hours from unsewing. Thanks.
Beverly
Have sewn apparel items for years, but still dread zippers. This looks like a great tip to try.
Linda Schafer
I have sown for years, but I still cringe at doing buttonholes. They never look professional when completed even with a top of the line sewing machine.
Ursula Kennedy
I love using invisible zippers as the finished look is so professional. BUT I struggle to complete the seam after inserting the zipper. Sometimes I have to unpick the seam to get it lying flat. These instructions make the whole process simple and a flat result every time.
Susan Spiers
Zippers – definitely zippers – from my first to my last sewing!
Chris House
A zippy way to Zap zippers? YES!
Becky Hournbuckle
I teach beginner sewing classes so these hints would be a great asset
Rebecca
Zippers are the devil in the sewing room. Thank you for Nancy’s “how to”.
Karen Videgar
Zippers and I rarely get along 🙁 Thank you for this wonderful tutorial on sewing zippers!! Now I’ll feel more confident when I sew one next time 🙂
Christianne McCall
Sure seam zippers!
Florence Dupuis
My biggest challenge is finding time to sew as much as I would like.
Joanie
Zippers in apparel patterns have always been the hardest for me. If a pattern has a zipper I look for a similar pattern without one because it is such a problem for me.
Willi
Thanks for the clear pictures. Now I know why zippers and I never got along.
Clovis
Zippers. When everybody else do zippers, they look great. When I do zippers they don’t look great.
MaryEllen
I have trouble with written directions and do better with pictures, video along with the written word. This is why I like the Nancy video’s and her books.
P.J. Miller
My most common sewing challenge is actually getting to the sewing! I hate laying out the fabric and pattern and cutting it out. My mother-in-law used to do it for me. She loved that part of the sewing process – said it reminded her of when she played with paper dolls. I do miss her.
CAROL
I LOVE ZIPPERS IN ALL SORTS OF CREATIONS. I WOULD LIKE
THAT BOOK AS A STEADY REFERENCE.
Sally Maxwell
My zippers have never been hidden. Maybe Nancy’s explanation will help. Thank you.
Edna Marks
Collars and zippers are my problem children when sewing!
Patricia Wester
My biggest sewing challenge right now is a serger that keeps misbehaving and is at the factory for repair. I need to make some short sleeve shirts for myself but can’t start them until that serger comes home. The book can’t help with that but I think it would be great to have for a reference.
Amelia
This came at the perfect time! I’m working on a skirt for Easter with a zipper.
Jan Nelson
Wow, this is an amazing book and well illustrated. I absolutely would love it! Nancy has done some marvelous sewing and l shown us many techniques in the past. I think this is THE BEST yet! Thanks!
Jan
Kaye M
I have not learned how to successfully install an invisible zipper and there is always a bubble at the bottom of the zipper. This information looks very encouraging so I will have to try again. I would be thrilled to win Nancy’s book. I miss her very much.
Laura Hansen
My biggest challenge is sewing multiple thick layers. I struggle often to get the layers to feed smoothly through my machine.
Bonnie
What a fantastic book! It would be a great reference book for my sewing library. My biggest challenge is serging for clothes and home dec projects.
judy
My biggest challenge is finding a space to sew especially a flat clear area to lay out fabric and pattern. I know you can’t help me with that.
Ethel
I agree with Bonnie who says it would be a great reference book for the sewing library. My biggest challenge is also serging for clothes and home dec projects.
L Watson
It seems like I am continually having problems with my sewing machine jamming up because the projects I choose seem to thick for my machine.
Corinne Rodriguez
So afraid of zippers! Never tried one, this looks easy!
Debi
My zippers are wavy when I’m finished. It’s something I don’t notice until I’m finished, so I have to trip them out & start over. My behest sewing challenge though is getting collars to lay flat.
Carolyn
I would love to have this reference book. I am teaching my daughter, daughter-in-law and my grand daughter to sew.
Also I would love to be able to sew invisible zippers better. Usually a mess.
Thank you.
Karen
Alterations are my biggest stumbling block. I just don’t get it! Maybe this book addresses this. Sewing zippers, sleeves, hems, waistbands, collars (pretty much anything that’s not straight sewing) are a challenge too, and then the items usually don’t fit when I get finished. I keep trying though.
Ruth L
I always seem to end up with a funny bump at the base of my invisible zippers… I just love Nancy’s quick tips and video resources which I’ve used many times when I’m stuck mid-project. Nancy created an incredible legacy for all sewers!
Diane L
Truly my most common sewing challenge is patience to do it the right way first! To often, I get caught up in finishing the garment or project instead of enjoying the process and not taking short cuts! Like the invisible side zipper I installed last night in my current jumpsuit project. I knew I should have stopped and actually made it invisible…. picking it out tonight and referring back to this post! 🙂 timely
Barbara Thomas
Zippers!! Have never seen a zipper foot like one in the video… The white plastic with the little roller that rolls right along zipper teeth.
Would like to try that one!
Nancy
I used the earlier book that Nancy wrote for 4-H to help new sewers learn basic techniques. Now I need a copy of this new book to help my stitchers find success in their projects. Their mothers don’t sew so I am teaching them also. Easily explained techniques are so helpful. Thank you for carrying on Nancy’s work. I miss her.
Sunni
Every new project with a zipper I’m determined to improve and always end up with an obviously home sewn zipper. Hope this advice allows me the satisfaction of “mission accomplished”.
Pat Allen
Many years ago…I had two homemake teachers that were set on you sewing up your under arm seam and then setting the sleeve in. At the end of two years of classes of doing this I told my Mom “there has to be an easier way” to which my Mom replied “there is.” She showed me how to sew the shoulder seam open the garment flat and pin that sleeve in matching dots and very easily sew that sleeve in and then finish the underarm seam. In later years I have taught other ladies to do this and never again did we do it the hard way!!!
Marty
I have avoided any pattern with zippers for years, so the tips make me feel I might be able to accomplish a decent one now. I also avoid buttonholes because my machine does so poorly with them ~ which means I’m mostly a “pullover” garment maker!
Lillian K
Zipper’s have Always been a challenge for me since I first began to sew at age 12. (I am now 71 and still shy away from zippers when possible). This book could really help me.
Jean Morgan
My biggest challenge is remembering all my sewing steps in order, after suffering a brain injury, Nancy is always so gently spoken, and soothing in her videos, and having her book would be the greatest of helps for me. I really miss her, as I am sure do many others.
Robbin E Dillon
Having only recently succumbed to the beauty of invisible zippers, I’m happy to follow these instructions – others I have tried: not so much!! Best of luck to all who have commented for the winning entry – fingers crossed!
Becky Kendrick
I have sewn for awhile and now teach a class in sewing at school. This book would be a big help working with students in class. Zippers are always a problem, so more help is always appreciated. So many of the students think sewing is such a challenge, and having this on my desk would help convince them that sewing skills are a treasure! . Thanks for sharing!
Tammy Edwards
Sewing zippers in LINED garments: That’s the scariest thing for me, so I have a lot of unlined skirts because I avoid that dreaded moment when I have to put it all together. Do you sew the zipper first? Do you attach the zipper to both the lining and the garment? All terrifying to me.
CHRISTINA GINGERICH
After 45+ years of sewing dresses I still have trouble putting in zippers. Thank you for this post and I would really like and use this book.
Karen
Zippers in jeans, fly zippers, are the most difficult for me. I like learning these easy methods for sewing. Thank you for sharing!
Julie Lyon
I love the handy and helpful ideas about putting in zippers. This book would be a good staple to my sewing library.
Elizabeth D
My biggest challenge is altering a pattern to fit my shape. I have lots of problems with “gaposis,” as Nancy called it!
Rachel Summy
Appreciate all of Nancy’s tips….she is the best teacher and I’ve improved my sewing so much following her advise!
Marlene Cameron
I dread trying having to sew the collar band that attaches to the collar and the shirt neckline – even when the collar and color band are combined into one piece I find it difficult and am never satisfied with the result. It is hard to get the curved end piece sewn so it is perfectly in line with the shirt front and trying to sew a buttonhole into that curved edge is a nightmare. Despite years of sewing, I dread making a tailored shirt with a collar band. Nancy’s death was a great loss. She was not only a good sewing instructor, she was a fine person.
Judy Billadeau
I hate putting in zippers! My things look great until i come to the zipper. It cries out homemade, never looks good.
jane
Well I hate to admit this but my biggest challenge is making buttonholes. I can’t figure it all out.